Italy Dreams

Tag: Italy travels

  • Italian Cookies? Yes, Please! Here’s What We Learned From the Cookbook “Italian Cookies”

    A chocolate and apricot jam-based cookie from Calabria in Southern Italy.

    If you’re like me and you would say “Si” to trying just about any type of Italian food, including cookies, then have I got a cookbook to recommend to you.

    “Italian Cookies: Authentic Recipes and Sweet Stories From Every Region,” by Italian American cookbook author Domenica Marchetti, just published this April and is chock full of dozens of cookie recipes divided by region: north, central, south, and the islands (Sardinia and Sicily).

    Marchetti has authored several popular Italian home cooking books, including “The Glorious Pasta of Italy” and “Williams-Sonoma Everything Italian.” She has a master’s degree of journalism (shout out to a fellow journalist!), and her writing is easy to enjoy. Marchetti splits her time between the U.S. and the Italian region of Abruzzo in central Italy.

    Holding a copy of “Italian Cookies.”

    Finding this cookbook was perfect for me as I continue to nerd out on all things Italy but especially the food.

    And let’s just say that cookies and me have had a special relationship.

    I learned how to bake chocolate chip cookies at a young age and have worked on just about all variations of this classic treat through the decades, having learned the original recipe from my mom and now have passed it on to my son. I even sold my homemade cookies in high school, wrapping four or eight at a time in aluminum foil.

    A plate of our No Bake cookies made around Christmas time.

    I bake cookies for Christmas to enjoy with family and give away as bonus presents–treats like lemon squares, decorated sugar cookies, and my always-favorite No Bake cookies with chocolate and peanut butter.

    Coupled with my love of baking bread, I sometimes wonder if all this baking indicates a past life as a baker…maybe in Italy. Just kidding (or maybe not?!).

    Ironically, I didn’t know a lot about Italian cookies until more recently, as I didn’t grow up around those delectable Italian American bakeries common in New Jersey and New York. Buying a box full of randomly chosen Italian bakery cookies at Christmas time just last year was a real feast for the senses.

    I decided to apply my cookie-making skills to one recipe from each region in “Italian Cookies.” Here are the results, followed by a few more details about Marchetti’s cookbook.

    Our puffy version of Amaretti di Gallarte.

    Amaretti Di Gallarte: From Lombardy

    One thing I learned from Marchetti’s cookbook is how almonds are commonly used in Italian cookies. The cookbook describes Amaretti from Gallarte, originating in Italy’s northern region of Lombardy, as having a meringue-like texture and a slightly chewy center.

    I found myself blanching almonds for the first time (basically, you put the almonds in boiling water and then take off the harder skins once everything cools down). Other ingredients include granulated sugar, egg whites, just a touch of honey, salt, and almond extract. You leave the dough in the fridge overnight uncovered so the batter forms a “skin.”

    Before cooking, you cover the cookies with confectioners’ sugar.

    My Amaretti before they went in the oven.

    I enjoyed the almondy taste of the Amaretti, although the shape of the cookies was not as perfect as in the cookbook. That’s because I didn’t have the piping bag to shape the cookies nicely. Still, I was happy with my first attempt at Amaretti, a type of cookie you’ll find in all sorts of variations around Italia.

    Our version of Biscotti Della Nonna.

    Biscotti Della Nonna: From Umbria and Other Italian Regions

    Biscotti Della Nonna means Nonna’s (Grandma’s) Cookies. My Southern U.S. grandmother, a master cook and baker, never baked these cookies but she probably would have aced them if she had the recipe.

    This recipe includes granulated sugar, an egg, extra-virgin olive oil, milk, orange zest, and a few other dry ingredients. You mix it all together and roll the dough into circles or ovals before flattening them down and coating them with a simple cinnamon sugar mix.

    A picture of Biscotti Della Nonna in the cookbook.

    The Biscotti Della Nonna were tasty, slightly bigger than I thought they’d be, and would do great with a cup of milk or even coffee. Marchetti even points out that they are good for dunking into your chosen beverage.

    Our favorite cookie of the whole bunch: Baci Di Dama Calabresi.

    Baci Di Dama Calabresi: From Calabria

    All of the cookies were good, but this one was the biggest hit.

    The name translates directly to Lady Calabresi’s Kisses, or you can describe them as Apricot Jam and Bittersweet Chocolate Kisses.

    This cookie was a little more involved because I had to make the top and bottom of the cookie, add jam in the middle and then dip about half of it in chocolate (the fun part!).

    With the butter involved, I felt like I was on more familiar cookie-making territory. The main cookie part uses other standard ingredients, including eggs, vanilla extract, and honey.

    Then, as mentioned, there’s the apricot jam in the middle along with melted bittersweet chocolate for coating. The recipe actually calls for Vanilla Apricot Jam and has a recipe for that in the cookbook, but I went with the simpler option of a best-quality store-bought apricot jam.

    Yum, Pasticcini Di Mandorla as seen in “Italian Cookies.”

    Pasticcini Di Mandorla: Sicily

    Last but not least, I gave some love to la Sicilia bedda (beautiful Sicily in Sicilian) with these Pasticcini Di Mandorla, or Little Almond Cookies.

    The recipe calls for almond flour (a first-time purchase for me) along with sugar, salt, lemzon zest, egg whites, almond extract, and amaretto liqueur–the latter of which I skipped as I didn’t have any.

    The cookies are decorated with glace cherries or whole blanched almonds on top. I found some dried cherries at the store and soaked them in water to give them a consistency somewhat closer to glace cherries.

    Since I didn’t have the pastry bag tool to give the cookies a super-cute shape as done in the cookbook, I just made circles.

    The cookies turned out sweet and almondy–similar to the cookies I ate a little bit too much during my time in eastern Sicily this year.

    If we’re ranking recipes, this was probably my second favorite, although one day I need to get the right tools to make the cookie’s shapes and ridges.

    Kept fresh in the fridge, these cookies still tasted chewy and soft several days after I made them.

    Our overpuffed (but still tasty) version of the Sicilian cookie recipe with the dried (but soaked) cherries on top.

    Italian Cookie Making With “Italian Cookies”: The Final Verdict

    I loved this cookbook.

    For someone who enjoys reading and learning about Italian food culture, I took my time to savor (pun intended) each regional description and enjoy the accompanying pictures.

    Marchetti did a nice job of including some recipes about cookie-baking pioneers in each region of Italy. If you’ve been to Italy, you may have even visited some of the places she mentionns throughout the book or on the list of select cookie bakeries in Italy. The chapter on cookies from the islands includes information on Noto’s Caffe Sicilia, which I’ve written about before but was unfortunately closed during my off-season visit to Noto, Sicily, earlier this year.

    Marchetti provides plenty of support and resources for baking items that you may not have around the house. She explains baking tools you might need and Italian ingredients (examples: Sicilian almonds, pistachio flour, pizzelle irons) and where you can find them in person or online–important as some of the less-common ingredients may be harder to find.

    Although I didn’t take the time to find these special ingredients, I could see the value of doing so if making cookies for a special event, like around Christmas.

    Trying these recipes also taught me a few things about cookie baking beyond my Southern U.S. cooking background:

    —Not all cookies need butter. This is still hard for me to accept, LOL.

    —Not all cookies need chocolate.

    —Almonds and sugar can serve as a great cookie base, which created a sense of deja vu from when I discovered marzipan (a paste of blanched almonds and powdered sugar) while living in northern Europe for a year during high school.

    –-Italian cookies do a terrific job of incorporating local specialty ingredients. This would explain how I ended up eating a few too many cookies with pistachio or orange zest in Sicily.

    I look forward to trying more recipes from “Italian Cookies” to further hone my skills.

    Here’s a link to the book: “Italian Cookies“.

    Cookies seen at an outdoor market in Noto, Sicily, February 2026.

  • Mount Etna Volcano, the Fish Market, and More: Here’s What to Know Before You Visit Catania, Sicily

    Saint Agatha Cathedral in Catania, Sicily. Saint Agatha is the patron saint of the city.

    If you’re planning a visit to Sicily, Italy, and you’re wondering if you should visit Catania, located in eastern Sicily and the second largest city on the island, here’s our simple answer:

    If you’re flying in or out of Sicily via the Catania airport, stay a night or two there so you can check out some of its highlights. If you like vibrant city life, spend some time there.

    It’s not going to be the peaceful experience you’ll have in smaller Sicily towns, but Catania definitely has history, passion, tasty food, and cool views of Mount Etna volcano.

    Umbrellas decorate the view in one part of Catania’s city center.

    Let me walk you through my two nights in Catania and share a few tips that may help you. I stayed there in late February when it was off-season in Italy.

    A quick note: I was traveling solo as a female but sometimes use “we” in my article to avoid using “I” all of the time.

    A street painting of Mount Etna. The view of the real thing is even more impressive.

    Some Quick Facts About Catania, Sicily

    Before sharing visit details, let’s load you up with a few facts about Catania, so you can put your visit in context:

    —The city has about 315,000 residents, and there are about a million people in the general area. The city also has beaches although we didn’t make it to them. The beach areas received some damage during Cyclone Harry in January 2026.

    —Catania got hit by a bad earthquake in 1693 and was rebuilt in a Baroque style using black lava stone from the famous Mount Etna volcano. This earned Catania its nickname of “the Black City.”

    —The historic city center of Catania is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

    —Catania’s been around for a loooonnnng time–since 8th century BC.

    —Catania has an underground city that you can tour. It features Roman-era aqueducts and more.

    A view of Via Etnea, a well-traveled street in downtown Catania, Sicily.

    Sights to See in Catania, Sicily…and the Scoop on Staying There

    OK, let’s get to it! I arrived in Catania on a Saturday evening, tired from my trip (I flew from the U.S. to Rome and then Rome to Catania) but also eager to explore the city. Pretty quickly, it reminded me of Lima, Peru, which I’ve visited a few times. Beautiful architecture with some gritty city life around it. Not gritty as in unsafe or ugly, just….a lot going on. Definitely a city with stories to tell.

    The four-room B&B where I stayed (shout out to Opera Boutique) was located on a hill about a block or so from Via Etnea, the popular pedestrian-friendly street filled with cafes and shops. After getting settled, I quickly made a beeline toward Via Etnea and watched my step heading down the steep decline.

    Right away, the rush of city life and energy was there. Young people–or mostly young, especially compared to the people I saw in SIcily’s smaller towns–were all around, dressed in black and flirting with each other, vaping, sometimes arguing. Street performers did what they could to attract passerby and get a few Euros tossed their way. Servers from restaurants beckoned passerby to try the pasta, pizza, or drinks at their place.

    Catania’s famous elephant statue, nicknamed u Liotru in Sicilian.

    I strolled for awhile before deciding where to eat, taking in the crowd but also the view of Saint Agatha Cathedral (closed for the evening) and the famous elephant statue called u Liotru that symbolizes Catania–located right across from Saint Agatha. It’s a good stopping point, but it also was crowded on Saturday night.

    Pesto pizza in Catania. It was as tasty as it looks.

    I eventually stopped for pesto pizza (delizioso) and a bright orange aperol spritz. OK, two of them.

    After getting a little lost, I eventually made it back to my B&B. While my phone’s GPS was helpful overall during my Sicily trip, it sometimes got things wrong and sent me on a goose chase that evening. I recommend that you have a backup plan for situations like that, whether it means paying attention to where you’re going as if you didn’t have GPS or keeping your phone charged well. Also, take a screenshot of where you’re staying and its address.

    Inside Saint Agatha Cathedral.

    The next morning, I enjoyed Via Etnea with far fewer people and far-off views of beautiful Mount Etna. I was able to go inside Saint Agata Cathedral (called Cattedrale di Sant’Agata or Basilica Cattedrale Sant’Agata in Italian) and learned a little more about its history. It was originally built in 1078 but then was almost completely lost by an earthquake in 1169 and then another earthquake in 1693. It was rebuilt in its current Baroque style and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

    Another view in Saint Agatha Cathedral. It’s kind of hard to see, but there was a small service going on toward the left.

    The cathedral honors Saint Agatha of Sicily who lived in the third century. Saint Agatha is the patron saint of Catania and of breast cancer patients. It’s also said that she helps to protect the city against volcanic eruptions. There’s a massive festival to celebrate Saint Agatha that’s held in early February in Catania. I was there just a couple of weeks after the festival.

    A Sicilian Sunday morning flea market.

    I came across a flea market in the same area where the fish market is held Monday to Saturday (more about that below). As a lover of outdoor markets here in Florida, it was great to compare flea markets in the Sunshine State versus Sicily, especially one I didn’t expect to encounter. As it turns out, flea markets still give you a great sense of the local culture, with old albums, vases, books, ceramic plates, and other items that were (mostly) unique to Sicily.

    Sicily is well-known for its desserts. We spotted these Minne di Sant’Agata at Prestpino Cafe in Catania.

    I enjoyed breakfast at Prestipino Cafe, where I ordered un espresso e un cornetto, per favore (an espresso and a croissant, please), along with a fresh-squeezed orange juice. Sicily is known for its citrus fruits. Everything was delicious, but the chocolate filling in my croissant got messy and I noticed a family of tourists gently laughing at my mess. Oops!

    I took several pics inside Prestipino of the traditional Sicily desserts they had on display, giving me a sneak preview of things I’d try later in my trip.

    I eventually made it back to the B&B and took an Uber to get my rental car. Since I’m focusing here on Catania, I’ll skip the rest of my trip (although you can read about it here) and jump ahead to my second night in Catania–the last night of my trip before returning home.

    My return to Catania got me into the city around 12:30 in the afternoon, where the B&B hostess let me know if I wanted to make it to the Saturday fish market, I’d have to hustle. I did just that and again, as a perennial fan of outdoors markets, it didn’t disappoint. There were so many types of fish around. While I wasn’t looking to buy any to cook, they were still great to see for pictures and the atmosphere.

    Calamari for sale at the Catania Fish Market.

    Much like my previous Saturday in Catania, the city was bustling and there were even more tourists than before. In addition to the fast-moving feel of the fish market, restaurants were doing a brisk business and I saw signs for horse meat (carne di cavallo), which is famous in Catania and a few other parts of Italy.

    The fish market was a definitely a highlight of my time in Catania.

    Ultimately, my need for sweets prevailed and I purchased some praline-style almonds from a street vendor–almonds are yet another agricultural item well grown in Sicily. This may not have been a balanced lunch but they were just what I wanted. We’ve all had those days, right?

    Yummy nuts in Catania make for a good street-food snack.

    The street area was quite busy (and honestly, smoky from people who smoke/vape). Beyond a pizza for dinner, those were the highlights of that day in Catania.

    I made it to the airport early the next morning with some confusion as a few of us thought our ticket counter hadn’t yet opened, only to realize it was open in a different part of the terminal. There’s sometimes confusion like that in Sicily, so make sure to advocate for yourself when something is unclear during your visit. Knowing some basic Italian can help.

    If I were to return to Catania, I would make time for at least a half-day tour of Mount Etna (elevation: 11,000 feet). It’s one of the oldest and most active volcanoes in Europe, located in Etna National Park. Although I was traveling through Sicily independently, I would want a tour for Etna as you can only reach the summit craters with a certified guide, and the guides can help instruct you on any safety measures needed. I recently learned about a tour operator/DMC called Enjoy Your Sicily through their Facebook group Sicily Travel Tips, and I would reach out to them for an Etna tour. (They also do private tours/experiences around other parts of Sicily.) Next time!

    Vendors working hard at the Catania Fish Market. Look at that large fresh catch toward the middle.

    Tips for Your Catania Visit

    If you plan to stay in Catania before and/or after exploring other parts of Sicily like we did, here are some tips to consider.

    —Stay near the street Via Etnea. This pedestrian-friendly street is the hub of activity in downtown Catania and you’ll be just minutes from the Saint Agatha Cathedral, the fish market, and other famous sites. It may be a little loud on the weekends but again, if your stay is brief, that will pass quickly.

    —Follow common-sense safety tips. Catania was the only place during my stay where I felt a little more guarded than usual–not completely unsafe, but cautious. Avoid having anything valuable in pockets that can be easily reached. Walk like you know where you’re going. Watch out for strangers who may try to ask for money or lord knows what else (one strange-looking man approached me for something on Sunday morning but I didn’t understand what he said). That all said, I got lost on my way back to the B&B on my first night and was wandering around and never felt completely unsafe–just lost. I eventually called an Uber to get me back to my place.

    A view inside a Mazzone location, where we bought more candied almonds.

    —Wait to rent a car until you are leaving the city. It may seem convenient to land at the Catania Fontanarossa Airport and get your rental car and then go stay in the city, right? After all, the rental car companies are all right there beside the airport. Right? Wrong. False. If you plan to stay overnight in Catania, we recommend for your own peace of mind to return to the airport area the next day and get your car. Driving in Catania seemed a bit chaotic, and I was thankful not to have to worry about driving there or find parking–especially after traveling hours to reach Sicily from the U.S. The ride from the airport to the B&B was only 15 minutes, so it’s not a huge trek back to fetch your rental car.

    —Have a little cash on hand. It’s true that we live in a cashless world, even in Sicily for the most part. However, Catania is one of those cities that charges a tourist tax. Unfortunately for everyone involved, the tourist tax can’t be charged as part of your online booking. For smaller accomodations, it’s easier for them to request that tax in cash (Euros) so they don’t have to pay expensive bank fees. I ended up having to go to an ATM to get cash, but it reminded me that I should always have some real cash on hand.

    —Enjoy trying different foods. Even if gritty urban life isn’t your thing, Catania knocks it out of the park with its food options. Whether you want to try some of the best offerings at the fish market, go exotic with the horse meat, fill up on dessert items, or just have traditional pizza and vino, it’s all there waiting for you.

    —Don’t miss Mount Etna! We said it before but we’ll say it again. Not having time for a Mount Etna tour was probably the biggest regret of my trip, so we’ll save you any heartache and say: Make time to go see this unique volcano.

    Buon viaggio!

  • Here’s What It’s Like to Visit Noto, Sicily–in Pictures

    Outside of City Hall in Noto, SIcily. Notice the European Union, Italy, and Sicily flags.

    If you’re traveling to eastern Sicily in Italy and plan to visit Noto, we’ve got you covered.

    You can find our detailed Noto, Sicily, article here.

    If you want to get a better idea of what Noto looks like as you plan your trip–or, you just want a virtual tour of Noto–read on!

    This article tells a story of a journey around Noto in pictures.

    I share some of my favorite pics during a week-long stay in beautiful Noto, famous for its Baroque architecture and its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The visit was in late February, so it was off-season. Hence, you don’t see a ton of people in the pictures.

    You can find more details about my trek through southeastern Sicily here. That article also shares some good tips for your eastern Sicily travels.

    Noto was a great “basecamp” town to stay in and southeastern Sicily. However, you also can find great B&Bs/hotels to stay in Ortigia, near San Lorenzo Beach/Marzamemi, Modica, Ragusa, and other areas.

    The fun pics and captions below share some more background to help you plan your trip. Andiamo/let’s go!

    Here is Noto’s most famous site, its Cattedrale di San Nicolo, or Noto Cathedral. It was completed in the early 1700s, but its dome collapsed and was replaced in the mid-1990s. The cathedral has appeared in various movies and TV shows, including “White Lotus.” You’ll find a lot of activity around this centerpiece tourist site of downtown Noto. It’s beautiful on the inside as well.
    Yum, here are the arincini, or rice balls ordered at MammArincina in Noto’s small downtown area. Rice balls are filled with all types of ingredients, including rice (of course), cheese, meats, and sauces. You don’t have to limit yourself to their restaurant to try arincini. It’s a Sicilian specialty so they’re pretty common.
    “Un cornetto e un espresso, per favore.” Restaurant ordering gave me a chance to practice my beginning Italian. I did good with this phrase for my croissaint and espresso order at Mangiafico in Noto although I didn’t know the word for “vanilla cream.” It was interesting to get there as it first opened, sit and eat breakfast, and watch some locals trickle in. A few noticed that I was not a local!
    Look at the cool lighting on the Royal Gate (Porta Reale) in downtown Noto. In the evening, locals like to have a passaggiata, or walk, in the downtown area. If it’s in-season, you’ll surely find a lot more tourists doing the same. You can also shop at souvenir stores and people watch while you stroll around the downtown.
    Noto has a mercatino, or outdoor market, on Sunday and Wednesday. I was thrilled when my B&B host at Cuore Barocco took me there to pick up some local cheese, and I returned that Wednesday for some Sicilian cookies and more cheese. Make sure to also ask any locals you meet for grocery store and bakery (panificio) recommendations. Cheap, fresh bread always makes things better.
    A random cat from my Noto stay. I have so many cat pics from my Sicily trip; they should become their own separate article!
    Holding a chocolate chip cannolo from Cannoliamo in downtown Noto. Sicily is the birthplace of cannoli so you must try one! They are calorie-free while you’re in Sicily!
    Every May, Noto has a flower festival called Infiorata. Here’s a staircase with some art that remained after the festival.
    One view of the streets of Noto. Make sure to wander around to different streets to look for good photo angles. For some reason, the sidewalk looks wider here than usual. The sidewalks were quite narrow, so walk carefully, look out for cars zipping by, and monitor your children if traveling with them. Also, be careful driving. I was fortunate to have a parking space that was not right on the street for my rental car (ask your B&B host if there’s anywhere nearby where you can park comfortably). Otherwise, you’ll have to deal regularly with a tight parking situation. My B&B was thankfully located near the end of the street and in walking distance to everything.
    A lovely view from the cut-out window at Saint Carlo Church. You can climb to the top of the church and check out a stunning view of the Valley of Noto and downtown Noto. However, be prepared for some stairs (see pic below).
    Here’s what the staircase looks like at Chiesa di San Carlo/Saint Carlo Church in Noto. They are quite steep and old! Only one person can fit on a stair at a time so listen out for others who may be coming. Still, the view at the top is a nice payoff.
    You’ve probably seen the man-and-woman statues that are symbolic of Sicily, but did you know that the pigna, or ceramic pinecone, is another symbol of hospitality and prosperity in Sicily? This one was on the balcony of where I stayed.
    Obligatory pic of a small car on an Italian street. 🙂
    Gelato from Gelati Bianca in downtown Noto. This was Nutella (I think) and the Sicilia, which blended together locally-grown items like raisins and almonds. Molto buono!
    Another view of the arch in beautiful downtown Noto.

  • I Visited Southeastern Sicily Off-Season–Here Are Some Travel Tips for Your Trip There

    Boats at Marzamemi in Southeastern Sicily.

    (A quick note: If you’re learning English and want to see a video about our trip to Sicily, please click here! It’ll be a great way to practice English and discover more about Sicily.)

    Ahhhhh…..la bella Sicilia/beautiful Sicily. Our interest in this southern Italian island is no secret, if you judge by the number of Sicily stories we’ve written over the past year or so.

    Yet we (OK, well, just me, but I like to use “we” to avoid overusing “I”) finally had the chance to travel there in late February.

    The 10-day trip included a first night and last night stay in Catania because of its proximity to the airport, along with renting a car and staying in Noto (the town that appears in a season 2 episode of “White Lotus”) the remainder of the trip.

    If you’re thinking of visiting Sicily, you may wonder if it’s worth it to visit off-season. This blog even has an article on that exact topic.

    Italian lights on display in Noto, Sicily.

    Now that we have the lived experience, we can confirm that yes, there are some real benefits. Here’s why:

    —The weather is a lot nicer compared to the scorching summer. Locals reported summer temps that reach as high as 45 Celsius or about 113 Fahrenheit. Whew! Another local said the summer weather there is best for lizards, not humans.

    During our February visit, morning temps were around 45 to 50 Fahrenheit and reached 65 to 70 by the afternoon….cold in the morning but great as the day went on. You’ll have occasional rainy or cloudy days, and temps may be a little colder at the start of winter.

    —You don’t have the crowds. Sicily has become a hot tourist destination, and I wanted to avoid the throngs of people for this visit. Each town I visited had a few tourists but that’s it. Evening walks in downtown Noto had very few, if any, tourists beyond myself most nights.

    —Prices are better but options are more limited. Many B&Bs (what the small hotels in Italy are often called) may be closed during the off-season. However, the ones that are available often are affordable.

    The famous arancini, or rice balls, from Sicily.

    The Itinerary: A Journey Through Southeastern Sicily Off-Season

    If you’re thinking about a trip to Sicily off-season–generally, from November through March or April–here’s a recap of the itinerary I followed, along with some helpful tips:

    –Catania

    –Noto

    –Marzamemi/Vendicari

    –Modica

    –Ortygia/Siracusa

    –Scicli

    Sadly, I didn’t make it to Mount Etna this time but would suggest you try to get there, especially with a good guide. Also, since my trip focused on southeastern Sicily, I didn’t make it the well-known town of Taormina, located north of Catania.

    You don’t need to follow this itinerary exactly. If you have a good “basecamp” city like Noto (see our tips section), you can visit each town when you want.

    We’ve got a brief summary below of each town and will follow up here on Italy Dreams with a full article on each location.

    Andiamo! From Catania to Marzamemi to Scicli and More

    Here’s some basic info on each town.

    Colorful umbrellas located near the fish market in Catania, Sicily.

    Catania

    Catania is home to about 300,000 residents, and they all seemed to be out and about on the two Saturdays I was there. Young people in particular were on the busy central streets of Catania on both Saturday evenings, ready to eat, drink, and meet.

    Some Catania highlights included the morning fish market that happens until around 1 p.m. every day but Sunday along with a local flea market in the fish market area on Sunday morning (a very cool way to see Sicilian antiques and other knick-knacks). Of course, there’s the famous Saint Agatha Cathedral, too.

    For both nights, I stayed at Opera Boutique, a four-room B&B that was just a block or two away from the main downtown action in Catania. Thumbs up to our Opera Boutique experience.

    The famous Saint Nicholas Cathedral in Noto, Sicily.

    Noto

    The Baroque architecture of Noto makes it a popular place for visitors to Southeastern Sicily. It was a safe small town and an ideal location. You’ve got Saint Nicholas Cathedral along with several other churches (loved the view from the bell tower at Church of San Carlo, located close to Saint Nicholas Cathedral).

    You’ll find several souvenir shops and restaurants, some of which were closed for off-season. Because Noto is popular, you may also find some of the souvenirs to be overpriced.

    Still, it was a good choice for a week-long stay and I got to try several famous Sicilian foods in Noto, including gelato, cannoli, arancini (rice balls), and cheese and bread purchased at the Sunday/Wednesday mercatino (local market).

    Menu seen outside of a tasty restaurant in Marzamemi, Sicily.

    Marzamemi/Vendicari Nature Reserve

    The fishing village of Marzamemi, a former tuna fishing and processing village, reminded me of Cortez, Florida, right here in our Southwest Florida area. Although the looks of the Sicilian village versus the Floridian village are completely different, both serve as a reminder of the commerical fishing business that influence each respective area.

    Marzamemi maintains its historical buildings, with much of the space now serving as a home for restaurants and gift shops. There was a pleasant walk along the water with plenty of colorful boats. Sicily got hit with a cyclone in January 2026 (causing around $1 billion in damage), and it appeared that some of the area near the water still was undergoing repairs.

    Still, that didn’t get in the way of taking in the lovely view or enjoying a pasta dish with Sicilian pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, raisins, almonds, and lemon peel. It was probably the best pasta dish of the whole trip.

    One view at Vendicari Nature Reserve in southeastern Sicily.

    The day near Marzamemi included some driving around the San Lorenzo Beach area and a visit to Vendicari Nature Reserve (in Italian: Riserva Naturale Orientata Oasi Funistica di Vendicari). For some reason, the reserve also gave me Florida vibes, with a friendly man who took my admission fee and told me in Italian about the stray cats at the reserve he helps to care for. Then, there were several choices of walking trails, many along the water. Don’t miss the birdwatching (including flamingoes!) and the old tuna processing plant.

    A sign advertising Modica’s Chocolate Museum, which was small but cute. Check it out if you have the time but definitely don’t miss chocolate tasting at the local chocolate stores.

    Modica

    When you think of Modica, think chocolate. The town still makes chocolate in the same way the Spanish and Aztecs made it, meaning the only thing that’s added is sugar–not cocoa butter. They flavor it with cinnamon, citrus, and other items.

    Modica is a hilly town, so you’ll find some attractions on both the upper and lower “levels” of the town.

    Many visitors to Modica also enjoy the nearby town of Ragusa Ibla, although I didn’t make it there.

    Outside of Ortigia’s Moniace Castle, built in the 1200s. As you walk around the castle, you can see the influence of the different civilizations that have conquered Sicily in the past.

    Ortigia

    Ortigia, an island that juts off of Siracusa/Syracuse, was a highlight of the week. It’s a popular destination with beautiful sea views, a castle (Castle Moniace) from the 1200s, coastal restaurants, a daily outdoors market (definitely try some local produce–loved the strawberries and bought some local oregano), and plenty of cats that made for good photography.

    I could see how Ortigia would also be a good place to stay for a few days, although it would take a little longer to drive outside of the island to reach other day-trip destinations compared to Noto.

    The beautiful Ionian Sea as seen in Ortigia, Sicily.
    Church of Saint Bartholomew in Scicli, Sicily.

    Scicli

    Pronounced sheek-li, Scicli was probably my other favorite destination in addition to Ortigia. Tucked in a rocky, hilly area (it reminded me of West Virginia), it’s a town made famous by the famous Italian show “Inspector Montalbano,” which named the town Vigata in the show. You can tour the town hall that’s featured prominently in “Inspector Montalbano.”

    The real highlight of Scicli was a visit to A Rutta ri Ron Carmelu, tucked inside a housing neighborhood among the hills where Mr. Carmelo–a charming, inventive local man who speaks no English–gives tours that show how his grandparents lived in a cave with their six children. Even with no English, there are enough visuals that you can still understand most of what he says.

    He then showed off dozens of inventions and creations that he’s made, all of which are for sale. Some are as simple as soap or home decorations; others are unknown contraptions that Mr. Carmelo will reveal to be a child’s potty or something else offbeat.

    A small black ceramic vase made by Mr. Carmelo now sits in our dining room.

    Expect some hairpin turns as you drive into or as you leave Scicli. Go slow!

    Obligatory cannolo shot from Sicily….this famous dessert is originally from Sicily!

    6 Tips for Your Visit to Sicily Off-Season

    Although my visit concentrated on southeastern Sicily, some of the tips below may help no matter where you visit on the island.

    –-Be prepared for the car rental process. You’re required to have an international driver’s permit (we got one easily from a local AAA office for about $20). You’ll also be asked in the booking process if you want insurance. Make sure to say “Si” to that as the insurance from your home country likely won’t cover accidents or damage.

    —Be prepared for driving around Sicily. So, how was it driving in Sicily? The autostrade (one of the main highways) was good and had some pretty views of the farm land. Road construction and blockages came up much more quickly than in the U.S.–God bless American roads and their big signs–but other than that, zero issues. Still, it’s a good idea to learn some road signs/driving terms in Italian before your visit.

    The GPS on my phone was overall helpful during the Sicily journey although some of the rural roads were bumpy and felt a little nerve-wracking in the rental car. One set of directions took me on a dirt road with long grass where I saw a man with a machete–to be clear, not a serial killer, but likely a farmer used to cutting his way around the weeds.

    That said, I intentionally didn’t drive in city areas like Catania (yikes!) and felt more nervous driving along narrow streets in Noto and the other day-trip towns. In fact….the good ol’ Kia Sportage rental got some scrapes on one side when maneuvering through a narrow road in Modica. That’s what that insurance is for, although note that you may have to pay for the damage upfront and then apply to get reimbursed.

    Bottom line: You really do need a car to get around Sicily beyond the bigger cities unless you have a guide handling that for you. Trains are present but some routes aren’t used as much as in northern or central Italy. Take a deep breath and drive smart. Or, have a trusted travel companion handle the driving if you’re too anxious to do it.

    Make sure to sample Sicilian produce!

    —Consider staying in Noto as your “basecamp” town. Noto was a great jumping-off point to reach destinations further south in Sicily. I enjoyed a week-long stay at Cuore Barocco, a studio apartment that was just a 10-minute walk or so from the downtown area but had a nearby small parking lot so I didn’t have to fit the Kia into tight on-street parking every day. Plus, Cuore Barocco had a balcony that made it great for watching daily Sicilian life.

    —Brush up on basic Italian. If your only Italian consists of “ciao” and “gelato,”you’ll probably survive. Yet if you choose to travel off-season, there are fewer tourists, which means there are probably fewer people around who speak English or languages other than Italian who can help you. Most people at souvenir shops and restaurants would speak English to me, but there were some areas (supermarkets, smaller towns like Scicli) where there wasn’t that English back-up. It’s always useful to know some basic phrases in Italian, and the locals will appreciate it.

    —Don’t set your heart on agricultural destinations or beaches during off-season. Unless I missed something, most vineyards and farms seemed to be closed for off-season–perhaps not completely closed, just closed to the public. I reached out to two farms to see if they were doing tours and heard back from one that told me no. Some places might open but for small or large groups. As for beaches, yes, you can visit them, but you may find differing quality off-season. My afternoon in Ortigia was warm enough that some people got comfortable on a stretch of sand and rocks near the water to sunbathe, with hardly anyone in the water. San Lorenzo Beach near Marzamemi was pretty but didn’t have anyone hanging out. Lido di Noto (Noto Beach) looked a bit worn-down on the cloudy morning I checked it out. However, it likely gets prettier as locals get it ready for season.

    —Don’t be surprised if hours and schedules are different than what you find online. On our first day in Noto, there was a tourist shop where I bought a great pistachio cream liquor (yeah, that one never made it home) and some Sicilian cookies. I wanted to return toward the end of my week to look for olive oil and a few other goodies. I looked up the hours online but every time I went by the shop after my initial visit, it was closed. Just know that hours for different places may be unpredictable, and probably even moreso than in-season. Some places even favor evening hours more after an afternoon break.

    Let us know what other questions you have about Sicily travel in the comments. We’ll be happy to help if we can!

    Buon viaggio!

    Obligatory pizza photo from Italy….this one a pesto pizza in Catania, yum….