Tag: Scicli

  • 7 Things to Do When You Visit Scicli, Sicily

    Scicli, Sicily, Italy.

    Are you thinking about a visit to Scicli, Sicily–or heck, you just want to learn how to pronounce the name correctly? (It’s SHEEK-lee, by the way.)

    Let our article help you.

    Scicli is a charming small town in the Val di Noto in southeastern Sicily, Italy. It’s an ideal day trip if you want a real slice of Sicilian life with some tourism mixed in.

    We wrote an earlier article about Scicli’s A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu (The Cave Home of Don Carmelo), and we’ll briefly recap A Rutta in this article, too. Yet there’s even more to see and do in Scicli.

    A view from the hills in Scicli, Sicily.

    Before we dive in further, here are a few fun facts about Scicli:

    –The population of Scicli is about 27,000 people.

    –Scicli is a 40- to 45-minute drive from the popular destination of Noto, Sicily.

    –The town was hit badly by a 1693 earthquake, which also destroyed much of the Val di Noto (Noto Valley). The upside, however, is that the whole area rebuilt itself over the following century in the Sicilian Baroque style that makes Val di Noto so famous today.

    –It’s one of eight towns in the Val di Noto that’s been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    –Amazingly, the town dates back to the year 300 BCE.

    Un gatto dolce/a sweet cat spotted in Scicli.

    I visited Scicli in early 2026 as part of travels around southeastern Sicily and found it be one of my favorite towns during the trip. It has the same beautiful Baroque architecture as Noto, which is more famous, but the town had a different feel.

    Its rockiness reminded me of the state of West Virginia in the U.S.

    Plus, people seemed….friendlier. I was happy that the people I met in Scicli were a chatty crowd, even with my just-emerging Italian language skills.

    Note that I was traveling solo but sometimes use “we” in my writing just to avoid overusing the pronoun “I”.

    Let’s go to Scicli!

    7 Things to Enjoy in Scicli, Sicily, Italy

    Mr. Carmelo shows the cave home where his grandparents lived with six children.

    A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu

    We covered A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu in a previous article but to recap this unique attraction: Signore (Mr.) Carmelo gives you a tour of the cave home where his grandparents raised his father and five other siblings. The cave home is set up with all of the “comforts” that came with their crowded cave life.

    After the cave tour, Mr. Carmelo proceeds to show you his many, many creations, from soaps to ceramics to other souvenirs you may want to buy. During our visit, he demonstrates his spinning-top skills with a child-like enthusiasm.

    All of this is done in Italian as Mr. Carmelo doesn’t speak English. Yet somehow, you still understand most of what he shares.

    I’d rank A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu toward the top of your list for a Scicli visit. Just double check hours in advance to make sure Mr. Carmelo will be available, and be ready for some uphill walking toward the Chiafura cave district. If you have a car, you should be able to drive most of the way there.

    The Scicli Town Hall entrance seen often on the show “Inspector Montalbano,” which was set in the fictional Sicilian town of Vigata.

    See Places from the Famous Italian Show “Inspector Montalbano”

    As an American newly learning Italian language and culture, I’m a recent fan of “Il Commissario Montalbano”/”Inspector Montalbano”, a detective show set in Sicily that became a hit all around Italy.

    I subscribe to MHZ TV through Amazon Prime to watch the series and the subsequent show, “Il Giovane Montalbano”/”Young Montalbano.”

    “Inspector Montalbano” reached as many as 11.3 million viewers for an episode in 2017 and 1 billion viewers cumulatively during all of its 37 episodes, which spanned from 1999 to 2021. Each show is like a film, lasting almost two hours. The same is true of “Il Giovane Montalbano.”

    Actor Luca Zingaretti plays the grumpy, seafood- and sea-loving inspector in the main show, and Michele Riondino plays the younger version of the inspector.

    The show is based on a series of books by the late Sicilian author Andrea Camilleri that he began to publish at age 70. The books were in Italian but sprinkled with the Sicilian dialect, and the same is true of the show.

    With my interest in Italian language and Sicilian scenery (because clearly I have a past life connection to Sicily, LOL), the two Montalbano shows have become fun weekend watching.

    The shows are set in a fictional Sicilian town called Vigata, located in a fictional province called Montelusa.

    Here’s the Scicli connection: Scenes from “Inspector Montalbano” were filmed around southeastern Sicily, and the fictional police station is Scicli’s actual town hall. It’s seen a lot in the show.

    Another view of Scicli’s town hall.

    I saw the exterior of the town hall when I visited Scicli and snapped a few pics. Sadly, I hadn’t yet watched the show so I didn’t have the foresight to go inside and see the fictional set-up the town hall still has in honor of Montalbano. Next time!

    Even if you don’t know the show, it’s worth a look if you want to appreciate something from Italian/Sicilian pop culture.

    If you are indeed a Montalbano fan, there are day tours you can take to see various sites from the filming of the show.

    Inside the beautiful Church of San Bartolomeo in Scicli.

    Enjoy Baroque Architecture and Churches

    As stated earlier, Scicli is one of eight towns in the Val di Noto famous for its beautiful Baroque architecture.

    Some of the Baroque highlights in Scicli include:

    Church of San Bartolomeo (not far from La Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu), a quiet wonder during our short visit

    –Palazzo Beneventano

    –Church of San Matteo

    –Church of Santa Maria La Nova

    You’ll find other examples, including some sites that occasionally appear on the Montalbano shows.

    The more well-known Baroque examples often have signs beside them in Italian and English to help you better understand their history and significance.

    The famous Teste di Moro (Moor’s Heads) statues, seen here in Scicli.

    Eat and Shop, Shop and Eat

    If you’re anywhere in Italy, you gotta eat, right?

    If you’re in Sicily, famous for So.Much.Good.Food., this rule applies double.

    Why not enjoy some of that famous food in Scicli?

    We only grabbed breakfast while there, so we don’t have any Italy Dreams-approved restaurants to recommend.

    However, folks online praise places like Baqqala, My Name Is Tannino and Prosit Sicilian Bistrot. If you’re looking for dessert, remember that gelato is calorie-free while you’re in Italy. 🙂

    As for shopping, we made our way to several souvenir shops in Scicli, some of the higher-end variety with beautiful handmade items and others a little more generic. We had already purchased a small black vase at A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu, so we didn’t make another purchase beyond some olive oil.

    Yet we appreciated that shop workers were friendlier…not that they were unfriendly in other towns we visited. Perhaps in Scicli, they appreciated the business as it was still off-season.

    Our croissaint and orange juice in Scicli.

    Absorb Daily Life in Scicli

    There was something about Scicli that made it easier to get a sense of daily life there.

    There was the encounter we had with a local female police officer who got annoyed that we initially parked in the lot for the train station/police office (oops!).

    There was the young couple arguing near the Church of San Bartolomeo, seemingly unaware of others listening.

    There was the shopkeeper who swapped stories with me about his dog, after I pointed out (in Italian!) that a picture he had in the shop looked like my own dog.

    There was the aforementioned encounter with Mr. Carmelo, who’s a real character.

    A black cat spotted in the Chiafura cave district in Scicli.

    There was the time spent in a small but maze-like supermarket where we compared prices for pasta, bread, produce and other items against our U.S. prices.

    Could you have these types of encounters in another southeastern Sicilian town? Sure. Yet there was something in Scicli that made them more accessible, friendly, and easier to observe.

    You can also find that kind of life interaction in Catania, for example, but there’s so much happening at once there, I found it harder to take in. That’s why Scicli was perhaps more appealing.

    Enjoy Nearby Beaches

    As we visited Scicli in the winter, we never made it to nearby beaches. Yet even with the hill-like feel of Scicli, you’re not too far from a dip in the sea on beaches like:

    –Spiaggia di Sampieri

    –Spiaggia di Mannara

    –Spiaggia Pantano Arizza

    Double check online or with locals about these or other beaches before you visit.

    If you’re driving back towards Noto or Marzamemi, you have many other coastal options, including San Lorenzo or the beaches at Vendicari Nature Reserve.

    And in case you were wondering: There are beach scenes from “Inspector Montalbano” filmed in Punta Secca, east of the beach destinations mentioned here.

    A morning view in Noto, Sicily.

    Visit Other Nearby Baroque Towns

    Whether you’re staying in Scicli during your time in southeastern Sicily or visiting for a day trip, you can absolutely take the time to take day trips to other nearby towns. This will be easier to do if you rent a car or hire a driver.

    As mentioned before, there are eight towns in the Val di Noto that are considered UNESCO World Heritage sites for their Baroque architecture. They include:

    –Caltagirone

    –Militello Val di Catania

    –Catania

    –Modica

    –Noto

    –Palazzolo

    –Ragusa

    They’re all relatively close to each other (Catania’s a bigger city, of course). Between our experience and that of others, we favor Modica, Noto, and Ragusa.

    Although it’s not a Baroque area, we enjoyed nearby Marzamemi as well.

    Drive safe–here are our lessons from driving around Sicily–and enjoy your visit to Scicli and the surrounding area.

    Buon viaggio!

    Some more information about the UNESCO towns in Val di Noto.

  • Fun Facts About Scicli, Sicily–and What to Do When You Visit A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu

    A view of the hill homes near A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu in Scicli, Sicily, Italy.

    If you’re making your way around Val di Noto in southeastern Sicily in Italy and want a real cultural experience, make sure to visit A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu (The Cave Home of Don Carmelo) in Scicli.

    Here are a few fun facts about Scicli, followed by suggestions for your visit to A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu:

    –The town’s name is pronounced SHEEK-lee.

    –The population of Scicli is about 27,000.

    –Scicli is a 40- to 45-minute drive from the popular destination of Noto, Sicily.

    –Parts of the famous Italian show “Inspector Montalbano” were filmed in Scicli.

    –The town was hit badly by a 1693 earthquake, which also destroyed much of the Val di Noto (Noto Valley). The upside, however, is that the whole area rebuilt itself over the following century in the Sicilian Baroque style that makes Val di Noto so famous today.

    –It’s one of eight towns in the Val di Noto that’s been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    –Amazingly, the town dates back to the year 300 BCE.

    A simple breakfast in Scicli, Sicily.

    Scicli, Sicily: Our First Impressions

    I would have never considered visiting Scicli, not because of anything bad but I simply had not heard of it. However, a Sicily native mentioned it (it always pays to ask locals for advice), and the name caught my attention.

    I made my way there during my February 2026 visit to southeastern Sicily, which you can discover more about here. It was a 45-minute drive from my B&B in Noto, and there were some real twists and turns on the road due to elevation. Stay alert!

    At first I tried to park at the train station (not sure why I thought to do that), but a female police officer chided me as she saw I was about to walk away from the station. As it turns out, the train station and local police station share space. Oops!

    I moved my car and parked much closer to where I actually wanted to be, enjoying a cornetto e succo di arancia (croissaint and orange juice) while sitting outside of a cafe and taking in the view. There was a group of moms nearby chatting about something but with my beginner Italian, I wasn’t sure what.

    Church of San Bartolomeo in Scicli.

    Despite similarities in Baroque architecture, Scicli has a different feel than Noto. For those of you from the U.S., the geography and small-town feel reminded me of the state of West Virginia with its hills and rock formations.

    Also, the people seemed….friendlier. I was happy that the people I met in Scicli were a chatty crowd, even with my just-emerging Italian language skills.

    Now, here’s the scoop on A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu, and I’ll use my next article to tell you about other parts of Scicli.

    Note that I was traveling solo but I sometimes use “we” in my writing to avoid using “I” all the time. Andiamo!

    Go this way to reach A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu.

    A Visit to A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu

    After my croissaint and orange juice and a visit to the historic Church of San Bartolomeo , I made my way toward the Chiafura cave district of Scicli to visit La Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu. Discover more about this interesting cave district here with an article from Slow Sicily, or watch this YouTube video.

    I used my phone GPS to help reach Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu and it kept taking me to the wrong address. As it turns out, Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu was somewhat hidden, but there is the occasional sign as you climb up the hill.

    I remember asking someone for help (did I speak Italian?! I guess I did!), and then eventually came across a sign that told me to walk a little further up in the housing community and it would be there.

    A Rutta is basically a cave home shown off by Signore (Mr.) Carmelo, a charming, inventive man who speaks no English.

    Yet don’t let that stop you from visiting.

    Mr. Carmelo shows how the youngest of the brood slept in this hanging crib.

    Mr. Carmelo’s grandparents raised six children in the small cave home, including his father. Even if you don’t understand Italian, you’ll still pick up a good deal of what he’s saying because there are so many visuals that explain things.

    During the tour, Mr. Carmelo shows creative, efficient tools his grandparents used for cooking, cleaning, and even potty training for the small children.

    A sign that tells you more about A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu, but it’s in Italian.

    As the sign for A Rutta explains (I had help translating the Italian online, which apparently also contains some Sicilian dialect), the caves in town were once used as homes, stables, and to store farming products.

    Life in the caves was difficult because of steep paths and stairs (some of which remain today) and having to walk far for water.

    People lived in the caves until the 1950s, when the government declared they were no longer safe for living.

    It was off-season, so I was the only visitor that morning. Mr. Carmelo lives in a normal home (or normal for the hill homes), located right beside A Rutta.

    After he showed me his family’s cave home, Mr. Carmelo started to show me his many inventions and creations that are for sale.

    He also showed me the area within the cave home that displays his handcrafted nativity scene and a traditional Sicilian village. It’s a lot to take in, but it’s impressive and certainly took a lot of patience to create.

    Mr. Carmelo and me outside of A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu.

    Mr. Carmelo also shared his skill and professional-level ability for using spinning tops. He demonstrated the use of a spinning top with such joy, you could see how the thrill likely started in childhood and never stopped. I’ll post a video of Mr. Carmelo and his spinning top on our Instagram account (@ItalyDreams).

    Next, Mr. Carmelo took me into an adjacent cave area where he had postcards, soaps, oregano, ceramics, and many, many other items that he had made for sale. A TripAdvisor review described this as a sales pitch, and I guess it was–but in the most entertaining way possible. I felt drawn to a small black ceramic vase with a pink flower on it (another Mr. Carmelo creation) that I purchased and later photographed before I left Scicli’s cave area.

    The small vase shown here in the cave district sits on display at our Florida home today. It traveled 5,000 miles from Scicli, Sicily.

    My time with Mr. Carmelo felt like a real connection with a local.

    Whether you seek that local connection, some beautiful views high on the hills, the history hidden in his family’s cave home, or some souvenir shopping that supports someone local, you’ll find it at A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu.

    Black cat spotted in the Chiafura cave district in Scicli.

    Some Tips for Your Visit to A Rutta Ri Ron Carmelu

    Bring Euros. At the time of my visit, Mr. Carmelo didn’t take any credit or debit cards. Apple Pay? LOL, no. It’s 3 Euros to visit per person, and then you may opt for a homemade souvenir as well.

    Be prepared for a bit of a workout to climb the hill. If you don’t like walking and have a rental car, you can drive most of the way up.

    Be aware that Mr. Carmelo may ask you not to take photos inside the cave home. There’s even a small sign inside that asks you not to take pics. He allowed me to take one photo that I’ve shared with this story. It’s OK to take pics elsewhere during your visit, like outside the cave home.

    Call to confirm it’s open. You can find the phone number to call here, and go to where it says “Grotte Museo” (Grotto Museum). Per the website link, A Rutta is open from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and then 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Friday, and same hours but until 9 p.m. on Sunday. Note that many businesses in Sicily take that afternoon break time.

    Want to find out more about Scicli? We’ll post a follow-up story very soon with even more places to visit.

    Buon viaggio!